NOTES FROM CHINA. 1905
Mr. Wilfred Chong, writing from Canton, China, says:
We visited the British Consul resident here, and he advised us to
forego our trip to Hoy Ping (the birthplace of Mr Chew Chong), which is
some miles up the Canton river, as it is unsafe to travel inland. Father
has gone but I am staying alone here until he returns. Scarcely any war
news is heard here. We went to see the famous
joss houses at Fat Shan. The images in these places are thousands of
years old, and we also visited the palace of 500 images of great men who
lived hundreds of years ago. We saw some wonderful carving at Wong Gee
Palace. The stone walls are covered with queer designs, as well as the
brass beams and all the woodwork. I am quite a champion now with the
chop sticks, as English methods are not used much here. The sunset
scenes here are beyond description, so are the mosquitoes. I have to fan
my net before I go to bed or I know all about it in the night. I have
seen some Chinese ladies with feet three inches long, and some have
finger nails 1 to 2 inches long. Going up the river, after passing a
Rocky Entrance, a beautiful sight is obtained of the long, low mud
flats, where the rice is grown, and the river is thronged with boats of
all descriptions. We have only two meals a day, one at 10 a.m. and one
at 7 p.m.— a long time to wait. I have been over the French bridge to
Shameen, the British and French concession. This island, about forty
years ago, was nothing but a small island of silted mud. A strong stone
wall was built around it, and then the inside was filled. It is a mile
and a half long and half a mile wide. The British have tlhreequarters of
it and the French one quarter. The buildings are very fine, all of
brick and piaster, and the gardens are very prettily laid out. No
Chinese, except the nurses, the house coolies, and the police and
soldiers (who guard the bridges to the island) are allowed there. Since
we have been here seven or eight Chinese have been beheaded inside the
Great Wall. I have seen some poor fellows with gaugues, or great wooden
collars, round their necks. They sit at the street corners while crowds
of men and women stare at them, and once when I approached to have a
look the crowd moved away and stared at me, and I heard some saying fan
gui," meaning "foreign devil. The prisoner looked up at "me and held
out his hand for coins, but the policeman spoke to him. I moved on, and
met a man whom I afterwards found out had leprosy. These lepers are
taken at night to a place where they sleep, and during the day are
allowed to beg in the streets. It is a terrible sight fo see their half
naked bodies one mass of diseased skin
On the island of
Shaimeen, there is one hotel, the Victoria, a fine place containing
about 40 sleeping rooms. To be sure of good water they send to Macao,
100 miles away, where the water comes from the mountain springs, so
anyone visiting Canton can be sure of wholesome water at this hotel. We
were fellow-passengers with the manager of this place, so he showed us
all round the lovely gardens, which are wonderfully arranged with pots
of flowers, shrubs, and palm trees. The first thing in the morning, the
guides come to take.'the intending tourists in sedan chairs into the
city of Canton, and they take them to the temples, pagodas, and joss
houses. They carry all day for the sum of two dollars. An American and
Chinese company have just opened up a railway line. It is only 30 miles
but they had great trouble on account of the dead bodies buried where
they wanted to lay the line. However, the Chinese at last took up the
remains and put them into earthen jars, which I saw along the line on my
way to Fat Shan. Each station has a soldier to guard the line and the
employees on the railway are all Chinese engine-drivers and all.
Whenever I go down a street a host of children as well as adults follow
me, saying "fan gui, fan qui." If I stop and look round at them, they
hurriedly stop to look into a shop and when I move on they, follow up
again. The country round about is infested with robbers and marauders.
They wander about robbing and plundering people and boats. I am living
at the large wholesale drapery warehouse, near the wall of Canton, where
the Chinese tell me, they think no white man has been before. It is a
beautiful place. The sun shines all day on a large window in the roof.
This they open, and a fountain containing gold fish plays all day. The
fountain is on a small island in the centre of a pond, which is
surrounded with palms and trees. The living rooms are very comfortably
fitted with easy lounges and every convenience.
Taranaki Herald, Volume LIII, Issue 12900, 4 July 1905, Page 8
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